Singapore — Chinatown, Bugis & City Hall
2023-04-06
I originally mapped out these sights as individual stops, but once I was actually in Singapore I realized the distances are short and the MRT is dense enough that everything is easy to reach. This post consolidates the sights and restaurants into a more sensible route. Here's the map:
Chinatown
Staying in Chinatown is genuinely convenient — cheaper accommodation, easy access to shops at night, and the safety feels about like Ximending despite what the internet says.
Chinatown MRT → Pagoda Street → Masjid Jamae → Sri Mariamman Temple → Maxwell Food Centre (Tian Tian Chicken Rice) → Buddha Tooth Relic Temple → Urban Redevelopment Gallery → Long Beach Seafood
Kaya Toast & Temple Visits
There are multiple exits from Chinatown MRT. Pagoda Street exit is a classic first stop — very photogenic Singapore streetscape, though I found the street itself a bit over-touristed. One discovery: a drink similar to herbal tea but with added American ginseng. In the heat, absolutely refreshing.
Ya Kun is a breakfast must-try. There are many branches but the Far East Square original in Chinatown is recommended — indoor dining was suspended during COVID but the outdoor plaza seating was spacious and comfortable. Service is fast with high turnover. Menu options:
- Kaya toast with butter: the classic, a bit dry
- Butter sugar toast: looked too sweet, didn't order
- French toast with kaya: highly recommended over the classic
- Kaya peanut toast: similar, different spread
- Steamed bread: unique texture like a steamed cake, kaya or peanut butter filling
After breakfast, explore the religious architecture. One of Singapore's most fascinating quirks: mosques, Hindu temples, and Buddhist temples all sitting within a few blocks of each other. Masjid Jamae and Sri Mariamman Temple are practically neighbors.
When I arrived at Sri Mariamman Temple a ceremony was underway — felt like a family blessing ritual, and I spotted a completely motionless cow that I initially assumed was a statue. Even without a ceremony, visiting was a new experience. A few rules: no shorts or sleeveless tops (wraps usually available at the entrance), remove shoes and socks (learned the sock part late), don't step on the door threshold.
Afternoon
Maxwell Food Centre — Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice for lunch. I had no expectations. First bite completely changed that. Can't explain it, just try it. Hours: 10:00–19:30, sells out early.
After lunch, cross the street to Buddha Tooth Relic Temple for a walk — Tang dynasty architecture, feels a bit like Kyoto.
For urban planning fans, Urban Redevelopment Gallery nearby is worth a stop. Hours: 09:00–17:00.
Recommended Restaurants
- Killiney Kopitiam: kaya toast and teh tarik, 07:30–19:00
- Song Fa Bak Kut Teh
- Bugis — Ah Chew Desserts (mango pomelo sago), 12:30–00:00
- Long Beach Seafood: chili and pepper crab