Singapore — Chinatown Area
2023-04-13
I originally planned this area as a point-to-point itinerary, but arriving in Singapore I found the distances were all much shorter than expected, and the dense MRT network makes everything easy to reach. This post covers the Chinatown area sights and restaurants as a suggested route:
Chinatown MRT → Ya Kun → Pagoda Street → Masjid Jamae → Sri Mariamman Temple → Maxwell Food Centre (Tian Tian Chicken Rice) → Buddha Tooth Relic Temple → Urban Redevelopment Gallery → Long Beach Seafood. Here's the map:
Ya Kun Kaya Toast
A Singapore breakfast staple. The Far East Square original branch in Chinatown is recommended — during my February visit they weren't doing indoor dining due to COVID, only outdoor seating, but the open-air plaza setting was actually spacious and pleasant.
There's a Klook promo voucher worth checking. Maybe that's why it was busier than expected, but lines move fast — high turnover and quick service. Wait time: about 5–10 minutes.
The signature is kaya toast: kaya jam made from coconut milk, duck eggs, chicken eggs, sugar, and butter, cooked in a bain-marie. Sweet but not cloying — I'd say the Singapore version is better than the Malaysian version. Combo sets include a soft-boiled egg and a drink. Toast options:
- Kaya toast with butter: the classic, but a little dry, nothing special
- Butter sugar toast: didn't order — looked too sweet
- Kaya peanut toast: same preparation, different spread
- French toast with kaya: strongly recommended over the original 🔥
- Steamed bread: unexpectedly interesting, like a Chinese steamed cake — you can choose kaya or peanut butter filling
Pagoda Street & Temples
Take the Pagoda Street exit from Chinatown MRT — you'll walk straight into a very photogenic Singapore streetscape. Honestly I found the street itself a bit too touristy and a bit dull, but I did discover a fantastic drink nearby: something like herbal tea with added American ginseng. In the heat, the first sip is transcendent.
One of Singapore's most interesting features is how different religious buildings sit side by side. Masjid Jamae (Muslim) and Sri Mariamman Temple (Hindu) are virtually neighbors. Masjid Jamae is one of Singapore's oldest mosques, but being in a Chinese-majority area, it draws fewer worshippers and looks a bit weathered. I regretted not visiting Sultan Mosque in Kampong Glam (Bugis).
When I arrived at Sri Mariamman Temple, a ceremony was in progress — felt like a wealthy family's blessing ritual. There was a very still cow I initially mistook for a decoration. Even without a ceremony, it was eye-opening for someone who'd never entered a Hindu temple before. If you want to go inside: no shorts or sleeveless tops (wraps often available at the entrance), remove your shoes and socks (yes, socks too — I learned this too late), and don't step on the threshold. Some temples restrict large bags and cameras; I recall a sign at Sri Mariamman saying photography was allowed without flash.
Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice
Maxwell Food Centre, midday. I had zero expectations — it's just chicken rice, right? One bite and I was completely wrong. Hard to describe; just try it. Note: opens at 10:00, closes at 19:30, sells out before that.
Hawker centres work like a food court — shared tables. If a packet of tissues is on a table, someone's already claimed it. In practice, the turnover was so fast I never saw tissues on any table. The outer perimeter of Maxwell has seating too — easier to find a spot without fighting the crowd.
When I arrived there was a line of about ten people, but staff efficiency is remarkable — maybe 10 minutes of actual wait time. The sugarcane juice at nearby stalls is worth trying. Don't queue for the long lines specifically — it's just sugarcane juice. Lower your expectations and enjoy.
Buddha Tooth Relic Temple
Just across from the food centre. Completed in 2006 in the style of Tang dynasty architecture — it genuinely feels like Kyoto at moments.
It's both a Buddhist temple and a museum, though photography is not permitted inside. Five floors total with a rooftop garden — I only had time for the first floor this visit, but it's filled with elaborately gilded Buddha and Bodhisattva statues. Quite impressive.
Urban Redevelopment Gallery
For anyone interested in urban planning, or just looking for an air-conditioned rainy day option, the Urban Redevelopment Gallery is nearby. Run by the URA (Urban Redevelopment Authority), it uses interactive displays to trace Singapore's land development history. When I visited, there were both tourists and students touring the space. Hours: 09:00–17:00.
Through colleagues with urban planning backgrounds, I've developed a genuine interest in this field — especially the way they present complex spatial data as clear, compelling stories. Visiting this gallery, I was as interested in how they communicate planning concepts to the public as in the content itself.
A small moment after: there was a piano at the gallery entrance that I initially assumed was decorative. Walking out, I saw a woman about my age playing intently. I stood behind her for a while and just listened. The piano was slightly out of tune but something in her playing moved me. I found myself tearing up, thinking: how long has it been since I was this absorbed in something for its own sake? Solo travel creates these moments.
Long Beach Seafood
My travel companions had pre-booked this restaurant. Every dish was solid, including the claypot crab vermicelli soup. The signature chili crab wasn't my thing personally — I don't love sweet chili sauce — but everyone from southern Taiwan loved it. The crabs themselves were impressively plump. If I went back I'd order the pepper crab, or try Jumbo or No Signboard instead.
The Neighborhood
Staying in the Chinatown area means having everything within reach: traditional medicine shops, fresh fruit stalls, jade markets. This trip marked my first time ever eating mangosteen.
I'd genuinely recommend this area as a base. Accommodation is cheaper than other neighborhoods, very convenient, and while safety is often flagged online, it really just feels like Ximending.